Tunbao. Stone alleys, ancient ways
Obscure fortified villages where Ming Dynasty folklore still thrives. In the mid-14th century, Mongols were gradually losing their influence over Eurasia. Weakened by natural disasters, rebellions and internal strife, the Yuan Dynasty that ruled over China was soon to fall. In 1368, the Mongol emperor …
Miao or not Miao. Gunpowder, batik, sour soup
Three unique, tiny ethnic groups in Guizhou. If you live or lived in China, you probably know about the Miao. Girls in large, intricate silver headdresses smile at you from billboards all over the country, advertising Miao medicine. Miao medicinal products and Miao clinics are …
Sui. Quiet village, rare script
To catch a glimpse of Sui life, I hitchhiked from Congjiang via Rongjiang to a small village called Bameng. Out of hundreds of villages I have visited in China, this was definitely one of the most tranquil ones. Swipe down slowly. Sui (or Shui) is …
Dong. Old wood, green rice
In and around Zhaoxing 肇兴, where the Dong (Kam) people live. Guizhou Province of China is known for its ethnic diversity. One of the many ethnic groups that inhabit it are the Dòng 侗. They live mostly in the southeastern corner of Guizhou, where it …
Peonies of Luoyang
Flowers are huge in Chinese culture. The city of Luoyang 洛阳 is famous for peonies (mǔdān, 牡丹). I went there in April a few years ago, when the flowers are in bloom and when many events and expos are held in the city’s numerous botanical …
Hainan: foodie reconnaissance
A large island on the South China Sea, just slightly off China’s southern coast ––– Hainan. Not only is this the geographically southernmost part of the Middle Kingdom, it is also culturally tied to other southerly southern areas of South China: historical links to Fujian …
Liuzhou 柳州
Every Chinese city boasts with pride about its cuisine. Some go next level and build food museums. Liǔzhōu 柳州 has three. But even aside these establishments, this city has one pivotal magnet for foodies – a dish that single-handedly immortalizes Liuzhou in gourmet minds: snail …
Realm of Hainan Noodles
Upon stepping on the island, you quickly realize that you have entered the realm of Hainan Rice Noodles, Hǎinán fěn 海南粉. Throw a handful of rice noodles into a bowl, add an assortment of toppings – such as fried peanuts, pieces of meat, chopped scallion, …
Dongshan Ridge 东山岭
I scrambled onto one of the many large boulders tucked on the jungle-overgrown slope to use it as a vantage point. While scoping the hills, I heard some bleats and saw movement in the bushes below me: silhouettes of a goat or two. I quickly …
Hainan: tea vs coffee
China is an empire of tea. You normally don’t associate her with coffee, unlike the neighboring Vietnam. Yet, tucked nearby where these two countries border on the South China Sea, is an island where both Camellia leaves and Coffea beans play a culture-forming role: Hainan. …
