Sayram: of saints and samsas
On the surface it’s an unassuming dusty little town, but Sayram (Сайрам) is known over Kazakhstan and Central Asia for being the resting place of many holy men and called “a city of countless saints” («Сайрамда бар сансыз баб»). While researching the things worth seeing …
Zhenjiang: fragrant vinegar, suspicious oddities
cold cuts on a dish black gold emits sweet fragrance lid floats in the pot Aye, I decided to catch your attention with this odd haiku. Don’t worry, odds are that it will all be clear soon. Welcome to Zhenjiang, the city of Three Oddities… …
Visit Zhenjiang or you’ll eat vinegar
A detailed desciption of a visit to a vinegar museum in Zhenjiang. China loves vinegar. If I was asked to name two vinegar-related locations a foodie pilgrim should visit, one would be central Shanxi Province with Taiyuan and its vicinities and the other would be …
Man-Han Feast of plastic
Out of more than a dozen of canal towns in the Yangtze Delta, Mùdú is definitely NOT the prettiest one. Let me tell you why I enjoyed it nevertheless. Curio time! Mùdú Ancient Town 木渎古镇 lies in the urban area of Suzhou, roughly mid-way between …
Kunshan’s stove mystery
Unless you’ve heard about Kunqu, an important form of Chinese opera, the name of the city of Kūnshān 昆山 might not ring a bell at all. Close to the mouth of the Yangtze and between Suzhou and Shanghai, its location is an undoubted advantage. Kunshan …
What is Shelpek?
Shelpek (шелпек), a round deep-fried flatbread, is often prepared by Kazakh families on Thursdays or Fridays in memory of ancestors. The duties of observing the ‘releasing of fragrance’ (иіс шығару) ritual lies principally with women. Seven shelpeks are prepared. The released cooking oil aroma has …
Koreyskiye salaty
Korean salads (корейские салаты) can be found all over the post-Soviet states. They are the most colorful spots at local food markets. And in Central Asia, there is hardly a single market without them! You may think “kimchi” and you will be only partially right. …
Almaty’s Green Bazaar
Markets are microcosms of local food culture. Whichever new country I go to, I always try to visit food markets. It’s a perfect way to learn about local diet, eating habits, seasonal products, traditions, language and even history. The status of Kazakhstan’s capital belongs to …
Tofu war!
The rules are simple: grab some tofu, throw the tofu, run and laugh. The watery bean curd, greyish-white in hue, flies in the air and splashes on everything. It splashes on cars and buildings, on people’s faces and clothes, on the camera of the local …